Sorry for the delay, and I will try to have Russian and Chilean adventures up here sometime, but for now, here is what I'm doing everyday in Turkey, and I will be posting daily from now on.

8/25/09

Today we woke up around 5 am in Moscow, and then quickly said goodbye to Ivan’s uncle and cousin. They were so nice to let us use their apartment for the week that we were there. It was fogged over in Moscow as usual. That’s one of my stereotypes about that city that has come true. We rode the metro with all of our bags and arrived at the train station right on time. The train was very nice, probably because it was not made by Stalin, like our overnight sleeping train was. We ate a few snacks on the train, and then arrived at Sheremetyevo Airport. The terminal is a bit rundown, looks like something out of the seventies, but it works. Customs was not bad at all and the officers hardly looked at our registration. We flew Aeroflot which was not bad at all. It was actually much better than our Atlantic flight to Moscow. Next thing we knew, we were in Turkey. All we had to do was pay $20 for the visa and we were through customs. We did some duty free shopping and then noticed that there was a man standing outside with a sign for La Sierra. He welcomed us to Turkey and soon we were heading through the city in his car to the hotel. We went along the ocean and noticed all the old city sea walls. We arrived at the hotel and found that our room was very small, with barely enough space to get around the beds. However, the hotel has free wireless, which is very convenient. The shower is about 50cm2. Fun stuff. Soon after we had unpacked a bit, we went and had our first Turkish meal. I had chicken curry with a kind of side salad. After that we went up the hill to the Blue Mosque. Nikki bought a scarf and we got some gummy ice cream, which was hard earned since the vendor played with it for about 5 minutes before giving it to us. Ivan tried some and found a piece of glass in it, which broke his filling. After, we went into the Blue Mosque, which was amazing. The columns are huge and of course there are no pictures inside, only calligraphy. Nikki, Ivan, and I stayed in the mosque for about an hour, just listening to the prayers being sung. It was very relaxing. After that we walked over to the Aya Sophia and admired the building. We also went into a carpet shop that had a small cistern in the basement. The owner was so nice and kept telling us about the pottery and history of the building, even though he knew we weren’t going to buy anything. We then returned to the hotel and met up with the rest of our group who had just arrived from LA. They were all very tired, but we went out to a Kurdish restaurant, where I saw the biggest piece of flat bread I have ever seen in my life. The food was very good, and I had the eggplant kebab. Afterward, we were all very tired so we stumbled back to the hotel after buying some water.

8/26/09
Today we woke up and had breakfast in the hotel. I had a sugary Turkish dessert and nutella with bread. Next we walked out and saw the Hippodrome, where the ancient chariot races took place. There are two obelisks and a kirly-cue metal thing in the plaza that are really old. We checked those out and then headed to a much larger cistern than we saw yesterday. There were many columns in the cistern of mixed styles, indicating that they were not Roman. There were also two columns with medusa heads that were very interesting and different than the rest. The atmosphere in the cistern would be perfect for concerts because the sound reflects off the water and the curved semidomes that make up the ceiling. After the cistern we headed to a medressi, or cultural school that teaches locals different arts. We sat and had some interesting lemonade, and talked a little about the culture we had seen so far in the day. Next we headed for a cafe to eat some kebab and stopped on the way to watch a man weaving a Turkish carpet. After we had finished the food we stopped to get some ice cream and of course the whole group was played with. After, we headed to the blue mosque with the group. This time there were no prayers being sung, but it was still very relaxing. Next we left the blue mosque and sat down in a park. A kid came up to us and tried to sell us his newspaper. He came up to me and even kissed my hand. However, soon his friends joined him and they all started tearing it to pieces. Next it was all over the side of the hill and the kids were using it to slide down the hill. This soon developed into a fight with a main bully who was trying to beat up the others. Suddenly some stranger came across the park and grabbed the kid by the ear. Next he gave the kid a swift kick and slapped him across the face a few times. The kid then stopped fighting and ran away. Next we returned to the hotel and met up with the group to go to dinner. We went up on top of a roof for dinner with an awesome view of the blue mosque. We got our food as soon as the evening call to prayer was said. I had Turkish pizza and a green salad. After we were done leaving we decided to go to the blue mosque again, but this time it was closed to visitors. This is apparently a very popular prayer time as many men and women were outside the mosque praying because it was full inside. We wondered around the book bazaar in the courtyard and then went out into the shops. There were many Sufi dancers in different parts of the city and so many people smoking hookah. The music here is great. After, we headed back to the hotel to catch some sleep.

8/27/09

Today were the neighborhood projects. Nilmini, Nolan, Andy, and I got assigned to a fairly old neighborhood and we were told to walk around and communicate with the people about their neighborhood, the boundaries, etc. It was a good thing that Dr. Mallery came with us because we did not find anyone who spoke English. Before this excursion we went down to the seaside to see it and were pleasantly surprised by how deep blue the water was and how clean it looked. Some other groups got to take ferries and trains to their neighborhoods. After we walked up the hill in our neighborhood, we immediately met a large group of kids. They were all so friendly and wanted us to take pictures of them. They agreed to show us around their neighborhood. They took us past the tombs and we saw two little boys who were being paraded around because they were to take part in the sunnet ceremony later that day. They had bright gold capes on that were trimmed with white. They had scepters as well. The tombs here are all very interesting because the inscriptions on them seem to be in old Turkish (pre 1930s) and they have either a fez or turban on them, which are made of stone. Next the kids agreed to show us to the mosque, only it was closed for restoration. On the way we passed the tomb of a holy man, and the kids stopped with arms outstretched to say a prayer. As we re-entered the community, some loud firecracker went off in someone’s yard that made a very startling sound. The kids were all dancing and shouting and leading us on. Finally they decided they had come to the end of their definition of the neighborhood, and they had to go home. They kept asking us for money, and so we took out a few lira to give them. As soon as we had done that, they swarmed us and wanted more. They would pass them off to their friends to make it look like they had not gotten any. Finally I had to throw the coins above their heads into the street so that we could get away. They mobbed us and grabbed our arms hoping to grasp a coin otherwise. We continued in the neighborhood and stopped for a drink at a man’s shop. He told us where he considers the border of the neighborhood to be, and so we decided to get going. We went and saw a Roman aquaduct, and then Dr. Mallery and Nilmini went back to the hotel area, while Andy and Nolan and I went to the Suliman Mosque, which is the biggest in Istanbul. Unfortunately it was undergoing renovation and we could only see a very small portion of it which did not include the grand central dome. Before we went in, we went and saw the tombs of some of the sultans. Next we attempted to find the spice market, but overshot it on the streets and instead went directly to the restaurant where we were supposed to have dinner. I got minced meat ravioli that had tomato sauce and sour yogurt on it. It was very good. After, Nikki and Ivan and I walked around the blue mosque area, but we all felt a little funny. We approached a stand and bought a round cucumber that looked like a sphere. It was interesting, we didn’t know what it was at first. After, we headed back to the hotel.

8/28/09
Today we went up to the Aya Sophia after having breakfast at the hotel. We first were assigned to read a packet about the building before going in while having tea. We sat down to read the packet and were soon within the building’s walls, roaming around the courtyard which was already amazing. There were so many random capitols from columns lying around, and probably some abandoned Byzantine graves. There were large unidentified stone structures lying everywhere, and a place where the old church, built a hundred years before, had been uncovered. After surveying the area quite a bit, we walked in under a huge Turkish flag draped over the entrance to the church. The building is enormous inside, and the space under the dome looks so huge because there are no giant pillars supporting that space anywhere near the dome. It was a little dark inside, and the thing that immediately comes to the eye is the large scaffolding under the main dome, that has probably been there for more than 12 years now. Some say this is to prevent protests in the space under the dome. Restoration efforts have been given inconsistent amounts of money for the project, and some years they may get none. The result is a hodgepodge of mini-projects throughout the structure which may lie half-finished. It is a fascinating building with so much history. After having become a mosque soon after 1453 when the Ottomans conquered the Byzantines, the frescos were plastered over and a good many signs with calligraphy were put up, as well as calligraphy was drawn and flowers painted on the many walls. There are many pillars that lean far out of alignment, and the second floor is especially uneven. There is much graffiti on the walls, which may happen to be centuries old. Between the upper and lower stories, the columns which hold the floors in place are not aligned, and this architectural achievement was the first of its kind. This building served as the main church of the Christian world for many years, and was home to many important icons and relics including the supposed crown of thorns, drops of blood, and other important relics. I took many pictures inside, especially of the alter area, which was very gilded with gold, and did not ironically face Mecca like it should have. After exiting the building, our assignment as a group was to find someone and talk to them about the prospect of Turkey joining the EU. First we had lunch at McDonalds. After, we tried unsuccessfully to complete the assignment even though we went to the university of Istanbul. We thought for sure we would find someone there who spoke English and could tell us their opinions. However, our group soon split and the we headed to the grand bazaar, which was filled with many cheap and touristy items, but also some very nice stores as well. Nolan and I found a carpet shop which was way out of our league price-wise, as we learned later. This was after Nolan had picked out a few carpets he really liked. After, we exited the grand bazaar, and, being completely lost, made our way back to the group the long way, seeing lots of the sea as we went. Next we rested back at the hotel for awhile, and then went to dinner at the Kurdish restaurant we had been to before. I had lamb kebab. Afterward, Nikki and Ivan and I headed out to find the sea once again, and tried some Turkish delight at a guy’s shop whom we met on the street. He was very nice and gave us water. We then went down to the water to take pictures. Afterward we headed back to the hotel.

8/29/09
After waking up a little early this morning, we headed out to the walls of Constantinople. We made it there by taking a bus and a subway. We were actually able to walk parts of the walls, and we took many pictures on them. They were overlooking the oldest settlement of the Roma people in the world. These are a type of gypsy people. They saw us from the ground, so we climbed down to meet them and take some pictures with them. They were very nice, but seemed a little confused as to why we were in their neighborhood. None of them spoke English, but we made hand gestures and communicated that way. Their houses and neighborhood were very dismal, basically both were in shambles. The government has gradually been razing the entire village to the ground in order to put in villas for the rich in the area, thereby forcing this community who has lived in this area for more than 500 years to find a different home. This has been done despite countless voices in the international community begging for some alternative to be carried out. After we walked passed this neighborhood, we arrived at a church, Chora, that was built in the 3rd century, and was then later added on to. There were surviving Byzantine mosaics inside, of very good condition, that were constructed in the 14th century. There were also frescos inside, including one very famous one, a resurrection scene where Jesus is pulling Adam and Eve from their graves while Satan lies tied beneath and the gates of hell are loosed. It was very interesting. The mosaics were so fine and detailed. The gold glass stones reflected so much light, and the church must have been very grand before the Ottomans took it over. It was abandoned a few times during its history, and subsequently fell into disrepair. Next, we went to go have lunch at a restaurant that serves Ottoman cuisine, and the dishes all have different years on them, telling you around when that dish was invented. They were very interesting. I tried a salmon from the 19th century. It had an interesting sour sauce. Afterward, we headed back to the center of town, and eventually made it back to the hotel for a little rest. We did however, before leaving, see the place were Mehmet the Conqueror entered the city with all of his soldiers. Soon it was time for dinner, and we met at a restaurant called Cennet, or heaven. There was a live band, awesome music. I had spinach crepes that were pretty good. Afterward, we left and went to a Kurdish shop by the restaurant that we frequent and listened to a man talk about the issues the Kurdish minority has in the Turkish state. Just recently their right to print Kurdish newspapers has been revoked. Children are arrested for singing and teaching other children Kurdish songs. Kurds are forced to join the military and fight other Kurds. They do not have an independent state, and do not feel very loyal to the state they do live in. They are not allowed to have Kurdish names, and are not allowed to write Kurdish words on official documents. However, issues have gotten better, as now they are more or less allowed to talk in public, as well as gather somewhat and play Kurdish music, etc.

8/30/09
It was a sultry day in Istanbul, and our fine group of 16 congregated in the lobby of our Istanbul Holiday Hotel. How fitting, as today was a national holiday! Victory day for the Turks is a reason to celebrate. It was on this day in 1922 that Turkish forces repelled the Greeks and saved their independence. However, our group chose not to participate in the festivities, and instead paid homage to the Ottoman past of the fine city by visiting Topkapi palace, and the sumptuous Sultan’s harem. Sound sensual? In actuality, life inside the harem was far from the picture of idle luxury and seductive engagements painted by the kindly Europeans during the age of Orientalism. Instead, it was full of plots and intrigue, as every concubine and wife of the Sultan sought the next highest rung on the social ladder. This ladder’s apex was the position of mother of the Sultan, and many woman fought for this status. Of particular interest in the harem were the adjoining quarters and baths of the Sultan and his mother, as well as the “pool of the favorites,” where the Sultan’s first class ladies spent their time. In addition, many rooms in the harem were covered in painted tiles, and calligraphy adorned signs above entrances into the rooms. Almost every room in the harem also had a type of wood burning stove that came to a point at the top, something like a large cone hat. Views of Istanbul’s Asian districts were visible from a balcony off of one of the living quarters. A fine place to live! Also within the walls of the palace were the treasury, and a room of relics from the Byzantine and Ottoman eras. The treasury held many gifts from foreign dignitaries, including orders and awards, as well as tableware. Also among the treasures were a flashy set of chain-mail armor, decorated with gold, an engraved sword with a blade 6 inches thick, and a 86 karat diamond. The relic room held supposed threads of Muhammad’s beard, the staff of Moses, and the sword of David, among a variety of cagey artifacts. There appears to be a copious amount of Muhammad’s beard to go around, is all I can say! After this tour of the palace and harem, our group headed for lunch, and stopped at a cafe with cushions. They were so comfortable that many members decided that a nap was in store. After the late lunch, it was off to the hammam, or Turkish bath. Some were at first a bit apprehensive about the prospect of the baths, but it really was an enjoyable experience. First, the group paid at the door and entered the lounge area. Next, the men and women split and were led to different sections of the building. The bath was very warm and humid, and had a giant heated slab in the middle where master masseuses gave each victim a massage. After, the group was free to sit around in the sauna-like atmosphere, and then to shower and exit the bath. Fresh squeezed pomegranate and orange juices were being sold in the main lounge area. After the group rejoined, we were all so relaxed! Next, dinner was in order, and the group chose a restaurant, which Josh, our painter friend had recommended. The owner gave the group a great deal! 20 Turkish lira (the equivalent of about $14 USD) for a starter, a main course, and a drink. Very good, considering most of the main courses started at around 17 lira. The atmosphere was pleasant, with local artists playing some of our favorite songs in the background, and candles on the table. There may even be a video of us singing to put up somewhere around here later. After the meal, we spent some time just talking with the waiters, and then, being so tired and relaxed, and probably looking like the cat had drug us in when we arrived back at the hotel, we called it quite a day.